I'll See Your Good Airs and Raise You an Iguazu Falls

The Obilisco--Buenos Aires' signature landmark


The last couple of days have been absolutely insane. Despite not having done anything in the prior three weeks of being here, I was determined to cram as much as I could into my final four or so days: a tango show, drinking mate (a tea beverage...), drinking wine, eating more steak, watching the Boca Juniors play a soccer game at Bonbonera, checking out the horse races, going to a concert (again), wandering around Palermo (its like the equivalent of Belltown in Seattle) one last time, visiting Recoleta cemetery, and so much more. Just as is the case with any major metropolis, there is too much to do here. Did I get all of the above accomplished? No, not by a longshot, but here is what I did do...


On Saturday morning I woke up a little earlier than usual to meet my buddy Ryan at the airport. I told him I'd be there a little after his scheduled arrival, and thanks to South American efficiency, I was about an hour and a half early (it takes sooooo long to get your luggage in Buenos Aires--I can't even imagine what customs would be like). After a few interesting events we finally got out into the open airs, snagged a cab and headed downtown to grab some empanadas and do a whole lot of nothing. Rest, of course, was necessary, as we had a huge steak dinner ahead of us. I would say that the normal consists of salad, a huge steak weighing something like a pound, a piece of chorizo sausage, some mashed potatoes, beer or maybe wine, and of course water. After dinner, you snag some ice cream with the other porteños and then you call it a night... after a couple of drinks at any fine and busy establishment.


A Steak Meal at Desnivel

Sunday is always much more mild here--with the exception of a few things. Sundays always start with one of the cities markets, usually San Telmo. I've been about three times now, and you can always find something absolutely amazing there. Though, I never buy anything. The market itself really only takes about 45 minutes to stroll through, but there are always street performers, tango shows, old gramophones (I want one so bad. There is this one in Husky colors that is calling my name), old school Barbie polaroid cameras, and even older school antique cameras from the 1890s. Ryan and I wandered around, ran into my buddy Ben from New Zealand, took pictures and pondered what to do for the afternoon.


Feria Artesenal de San Telmo

Sundays also typically feature all of the futbol games you could ever desire. I was lucky enough to wait it out and go to see a Boca Juniors game at La Bonbonera, or the Chocolate Box--their stadium in La Boca. The Boca Juniors team is widely regarded at the most historic not only in Argentina but also in all of South America. The neighborhood of La Boca turns completely blue and yellow on weekends. I was able to snag some tickets and see the Boca Juniors take on and destroy the Argentino Juniors... We went to the stadium on a standard school bus, because I booked through a tour company--which also happened to be one of the cheaper ones. They were pretty bad. The bus ride took forever, because the driver tried to drive through, instead of around, the San Telmo Street Fair, which left only 10 minutes to eat the worse pizza of my life. I then got to game and found out that the whole group of us had to smash into the bleacher seating like cattle, as opposed to having assigned seats like we were told we would have. After the awful pizza and probably not enough water, I felt a little woosy and thought I was going to hurl. I got out of the crowd, obtained some much needed fresh air and thought about why in the hell I didn't just buy my own ticket and get my own transport to the game instead of paying some ridiculous price for it. The game started though, and all was quickly forgotten... The stadium was unbelieveable. I can safely say that I have never ever experienced something so electrifying as La Bonbonera on gameday. And, as was expected, the Boca Juniors put on a show scoring four goals in a route of their opponents...

I was pretty worried that I wouldn't be able to get ahold of my friends Maria and Agustín again before I left Buenos Aires. Fortunately, they emailed me back and told me to come find them at the Konex. No big deal, except that I really wanted to go check out the horse races in Argentina... I let it go, adjusted the ol plans, and set out towards Recoleta Cemetery.

The cemetery is almost set out in a gridlike fashion, with almost--or maybe more than--a thousand graves of Argentina's elite. You can walk around for hours scoping the incredibly gaudí statues and artwork that adorn each of the graves...


Eva Peron's grave at Cementario Recoleta

Later on, we busted a move back to the hostel and got ready to go right back out again for yet another drum and bass concert... I met up with Agustín and Maria, their friends, and a couple of other people I have met through my adventures and felt really great about being able to introduce one of my friends from home to somebody who doesn't speak with a British accent. The concert ended after about a percussion filled hour, and we fought through the crowd to find somewhere to eat. Only, we didn't and ended up at some party instead. That pretty much sums up life in Buenos Aires...


Back at the Konex again...

On Tuesday, well, I collapsed. I got rid of all grand designs for things to do and went to see American Gangster instead, before going to an Asado--traditional Argentine BBQ--at Agustín's house. We drank wine, ate Cow Gland, blood sausage, more chorizo, and philosophised over the differences in classic rock during the 60s and 70s. It was a great final night in Buenos Aires, and a great reminder of the fact that we do really have friends from all over the world, even if we don't know it yet. All you have to do is find them, which can happen in the most random of places.

As a side note: It has been awesome to see someone from home. I think it has helped me think about the ways that I have changed and the ways in which I will never change... Moreso, it's just been great to see one of my close friends adjust to all of these new things. Maybe its because it provides me with perspective on how I adjusted at the beginning. Then again, maybe not.

I didn't get to see the slow trot horse races featured on Anthony Bourdain, or even go to a commercialized big-time tango show production. Still, my time here has been amazing, and I've never been one to be about checklists (actually that isn't true, but people will and should always come first). As far as vacations go, I think I'm ready to take off for the next destination: Puerto Iguazu.