As you make your final ascent up to Intipunku (or the Sun Gate as white people like to call it) you find yourself gasping for air. Only--unlike the previous three days--altitude is not the cause. The sun creeps higher in the morning sky, the fog recedes, and you lay eyes on the glorious Incan citadel that is Machu Picchu. That there are about twenty or thirty other people situated somewhere next to you doesn't matter--it feels like they aren't. And in 10 minutes, just as if it were never there, steam rises off all things green and the city is covered in a shroud of fog once again. I must say, that it is quite the wonder.
The last two weeks have been absolutely unbelievable. I got lucky again, booked a trek on the Inca Trail, flew to Guayaquil, met up with the brother of an acquantaince of an acquantance for a night on the town, slept throughout the next day, hopped on a night flight to Lima (that got delayed four times), proceeded to sleep in the Lima airport until I hopped on my 5:30am flight to Cusco (which was delayed twice as well), finally landed in the tourist hub that is the city of the Puma (Cusco), went to the trek company to pay off the balance on my trek and decided to partake in something they called the "Wayki option" the very next day--so much for acclimitizing.
The Wayki option allowed our group of eight trekkers to spend a night in Huayllaccocha, the village where the porters who work for the company live. Though parts were a little too touristy, the evening allowed us to have a small glimpse into the lifestyle of a campesino--we ate traditional Cuscueño food, sampled some homemade alcohol, listened to music, and danced. It wasn't a representation of everyday life, but it was enough to perk my interests. This, of course, would ultimately lead me on the path to another adventure a few days down the road... We spent the first night in the backyard of our guide José's grandmother's abode, spent time getting to know one another in the group, and mentally prepared ourselves for the 33 kilometers of the Inca Trail.
Good ol' kilometer 82... Oh the memories...
The first day of the Inca Trail takes it easy on you as you glide over jagged stones with relative ease en route to Llaqtapata, the first ruin on the trail. It was here that we stopped for our history lesson, and also where I think we all began to realize the privelage we had being allowed to take this trek. From there we began our ascent uphill towards Wayllabamba, swerving around and over the Cusichaca Stream and carving our way through an incredibly fertile valley.
You would think that someone would get tired of taking pictures of the same mountain...
You wake up on the second morning, feeling like you can do just about anything. And you should, you have some of the most beautiful scenery in the world surrounding you at all times--peaks jutting up into the air, dramatic snowcapped mountain ranges, and lush green vegitation. Then after the first hour and a half of hiking, you realize you're body's about to take a beating as you climb up jagged Incan steps to over 4200 meters... You relax for a bit, feeling accomplished and you try to ignore the annoying group ahead of you who happens to be yelling at the one 60-plus year old woman to keep going despite the lack of oxygen, until you finally realize you have to descend back down hellish steps similar to the ones you just came up. This time, you're motivated by hunger and you head downhill like a champ to your campsite and the glorious meal that awaits you...
Fondly thinking of Guanajuato and a shot through the eyes of "The Liam"
Warmiwañuska: The highest point on the Inca Trail at 4215 meters
The second day is hard... but all you ever have to do is turn around, look up, or simply think about what you are doing in order to keep going. Oh, and you can chew coca leaves too, which quickly became a favorite pasttime of our group...
I'd like to tell you that everyday's camp wasn't like this... but I would be lying...
The third day starts off with a visit to Runkuraqay--its theorized to be a place to crash for Incan trail runners--and a short but sweet jaunt uphill past the Black Lake to another summit and place of rest where you learn about the apucheta--an Incan ritual involving a natural offering and small stone pyramids--while reflecting in the midst of clouds. Though hard, you pull yourself away from this tranquil setting and set off towards Sayacmarca, an Incan site considered to be both residential and a fortress. Its known predominantly for its ingenious canal system that directs water from the mountains into the small citadel. On the way, the landscape suddently begins to change to subtropical forest, colorful orchids appear, and a constant myst develops. Despite the overwhelming beauty, your legs have grown tired and you just want to make it to camp where your first warm shower in four days awaits you, along with the option of a cold beer.
Runkuraqay
Sayacmarca
On the final morning, you arise at 4am to prepare yourself for the final leg and your first sight of Machu Picchu from the Intipunku. You hope, during the rainy season, that you will catch a glimpse of the unbelievable Incan citadel before the fog rolls in. However, you first have to wait for about thirty minutes with the two hundred or so other tourists that have been walking the trail, and eventually realize that you haven't had the trail all to yourself after all. People burst through the gates in order to try to make Intipunku by sunrise--and most fail, either by rolling an ankle or forgetting that the sun rises at about 5:30 during the summer in South America... When you do catch your first glimpse, its just brilliant. Its everything you hoped for, and the sickness, fatigue, and lack of cleanliness no longer matter...
Below are a few pictures that I feel appropriately depict an average day at Machu Picchu.
10am at Machu Picchu... No, its not your computer...
The Temple of the Sun
View from Waynapicchu
I'm going to edit this post later in order to add more about my personal experience... Though its been a couple of days, I still need to think about it...
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