You know the pictures that you drew when you were a little kid? They had that huge golden sun, those pillowy grey clouds, the light sand freckled by red and black shells and rocks. The sea foam blue waves lapping up against the beach, manta rays (for the advanced drawer) fliding bakc and forth through the water, bright red crabs, gigantic pelicans, lizards and those stretched out upside down W's (or M's technically...) you intended to resemble birds gliding off into the distance. I don't know, maybe your pictures weren't much like this, maybe they were a slight variation, or an entirely different landscape altogether--it doesn't really matter. Chances are, the pictures that you drew could be found here, in the Galapagos Islands.
I didn't plan on coming here. I didn't even really want to. I dismissed how great everybody said it was, because the price was too high. But instead, I got lucky, getting restless at the right time. I gambled and ended up in the right place. I got to see my pictures come to life in front of me, all for what now seems like no cost at all. I now leave here with new thoughts and strategies for my travels, all because of some islands and the creatures that inhabit them--that includes the people.
I wandered the town frantically on Thursday afternoon trying to figure out what I wanted to do. It was either become a PADI certified diver, go on an overpriced tour, or stay in Puerto Ayora, doing a little bit of everything for what I thought would probably be less money. The day before, I met two guys on the bus over who have been and will continue to be traveling through South America. For the sake of getting a cheap room, we all decided to bunk together, which is really the beginning of the story. Julian and Dave had already booked a tour--three days through the islands--but they also wanted to go diving. I tagged along, of course, which allowed me to appropriately explore all of my options before making a decision. If it wasn't for those guys, I'm not so sure that I would have realized what kind of opportunities lie right before me...
After Julian and Dave departed, my options had dwindled. I could't decide what to do, so I did what most confused young men would--I called my mom. Of course, she wan't sure, but I did remember that she had told me earlier that I needed to live a little and not worry so much about money (odd words coming from my mother). I decided to run around and figure out if I could obtain PADI certification or not--I quickly found out I couldn't. All the dive instructors were gone for holiday, you know, as the Brits say. With options and time dwindling away, I had to move quick. I went back to the tour agency and checked out the three available tours. One filled up while I was there and it came down to two--a fancy smaller boat, or this rustic gem of a yacht named the Angelique. Me, being the romantic that I am, chose the old yacht and a four day tour, packed up my things, got the cash and decided to go. After all, I was in the Galapagos Islands, and you never know if you'll make it to all the places you want to, on this trip or the next. I booked it, and all I had to do was wait.
I sat on the dock for a couple of hours, wondering if I had made the right decision. The financial implications could mean I wouldn't be able to do some of the other things I had planned on doing. Maybe I would change my mind about a lot of things in the next few days. Maybe this would be one of the greatest things I have ever done (at least top 5, right?). And maybe I wasn't as cool as I thought I was...
Meet at dock, 6PM
15 people jumped in a dingy as the guide yelled out "Angelique." I had booked the tour so late that they didn't know I was coming. Turns out I had missed the first part of the tour too... an exploration of the highlands and the Charles Darwin Center. This was alright, as I snuck my way onto Julian and Dave's tour in the morning. I at least got to see the giant tortoises, including Lonesome George (the turtle equivalent of a 40 year old virgin). Anyway, on the dingy, this guy Neil threw a couple of quick questions my way to test the waters, and I could tell we'd get along pretty well. We eventually climbed onto the rocking Angelique for dinner. She was every bit of rustic that I had hoped for, but I was getting sea sick pretty fast.
Dinner was an opportunity to introduce myself to everyone and to find out that I would be rooming with who turned out to be an incredibly fascinating and interested middle-aged Polish woman. At first, I felt kind of bad for her as she had no idea this would happen. She had paid a premium price to come aboard and she was being foreced to bunk with some smelly 20-something post-undergrad. And then, I let her have the bottom bunk. The rest of the group was comprised of Polish toruists--a rowdy and lively bunch--a couple more guys and a two couples. The groups quickly divided into two tables (or factions really) for dinner--the English speakers at one table and the Polish at the other. We got to talking, and I quickly gained a fondness for my traveling companions, particularly Neil and Coralie (a younger couple), as well as Rob and Bev... They were sharp, what seemed like well-educated, and full of one liners. They were, for all extensive purposes, my kind of people (even if they don't know a lick about American Football). Dinner was good, but I had troubles overcoming the constant teetering of the boat. Serg(io), our guide, gave us the breakdown of the tour. We would be visiting the southern islands over the next four days: Floreana, Española, Santa Fe, Plazas, and North Seymour.
I felt sick, and despite the fun of dinner, thoughts of whether I had made the right decision lingered. I retired to my cabin and passed out.
Day 1: Floreana
Eventually, the sun rose and I awoke the next morning. The boat was still rocking and I felt like I had made all the wrong decisions. I felt sick and like I had paid too much to take this tour. Then, as I looked out I found a whiskered peeping tom playfully splashing my window. It was about then that I began to think of the overall monumental lifetime achievement status--and more importantly the experience of being here--of having been in the archipelago, and realized how little cost really does matter (Though, I still tried to eat as much as possible during the meals in order to obtain a greater value... hahaha).
After breakfast we hauled off to Post Office Bay, where Serg regailed us with the tail of a woman that lived on the island, her lovers, and how PO Bay got its name. There is a post box--about the only man made structure--on the island. The only catch is that the postcards you put in don't have stamps. They wait there until you either come pick them up some day, or some kind soul hand delivers them to the addressee. It was quite a refreshing idea really... However, despite the fascinating tale, we got bored pretty quick examining this wooden box and headed down to the lava tunnels.
So it turns out that we needed flashlights. There were about 4 for 12 of us, but we made do. We walked down the lava tunnels to find the water that had remained from thousands of years ago. We hiked up our shorts to a level appropriate for the 1980s and surged forward. Once we figured out that we would only be finding waist high water, we turned back. It wasn't that cool, to be honest, but the ways that the English speaking posse was able to joke around about everything eased my worries.
We spent the afternoon snorkeling throughout the Corona del Diablo--a cracked and sunken volcanic crater now filled with hundreds of species of life aquatic. On a sunny day, it is supposed to be the best place to snorkel in the Archipelago. I can't say that I have any complaints either. Eagle rays swam gracefully through the water while parrot fish nibbled at coral. Gigantic star fish inhabited every nook and cranny of the cold cold sea. On the way back, we saw two turtles copulating, until, the males head popped out of the water with a frustrated look--kind of like when you walk in on your roommate, if that's ever happened before. Needless to say, he ducked back under the cover of the water to never be seen again. It was ok though, because I would see plenty of turtles copulating on my four day voyage...
After a hearty lunch, we lazed around the boat getting to know one another better. My Polish roommate and I were the only spanish speakers on the boat, and we tried our best to keep our guide Serg entertained. I found out that Rob was a pediatrician, and all of his corny (but very charming and sharp) one liners all made sense. I say that, because I could understand why his personality would be well suited for a pediatrician... His wife Bev rolled her eyes at most things, while adding her own timely lines every once in a while. Neil and Coralie were traveling around South America too, on what I think is a year long holiday. Neil reminded me a lot of both of my brothers, which was pretty comforting after feeling so homesick. Talking to them all kind of got me in a rythym, and I started to feel a lot better about what I was doing.
We landed at Point Cormerant late in the afternoon. Serg guided us up the trail to the other side of the point, where we could see manta rays beaching themselves in search of sand crabs. We wandered at wandered, having only seen a few, until Neil almost stepped on one in a cloud of sand... We had found hundreds of them, almost doubled up on one another, floating in the sand. After accidentally stepping on one (they are soooo sneaky), I wandered off on my own... and eventually stumbled onto some tortoises copulating... again.
After the novelty wore off, we left the tortoises alone, and headed back towards the lagoon. Home to about 10 Galapagos Flamingos... Our attention spans were wearing thin, and our appetites growing. We slowly creeped to the dingy and found a bunch of sea lions ready to play... The sun was setting, the wind blowing, and the sea lions barking. It was definitely a picturesque ending to the first days activities.
I finished the day with a rousing game of peanuckle (forgive me if I spelled it wrong). After a tough, tough loss to Rob, I retired to my cabin and thought about the day... It was incredible, and only the beginning. There aren't enough words to describe what its really like, but I'll try to continue with the following days.
A little later of course... its time for dinner.
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